Vintage Watch | Seiko 5717-8990 Chronograph (Crown Chronograph)

Seiko Crown Chronograph Ref. 5717-8990 – Seiko's first chronograph, a Historic 1967 Masterpiece

At Samurai Vintage Co., we’re thrilled to unveil a true horological milestone: the 1967 Seiko Crown Chronograph Ref. 5717-8990, Seiko’s first-ever chronograph and a watch that create to mark the milestone of Japan's entry to the global stage for 1964 Tokyo Olympics. With its rare steel bezel and impeccable vintage charm, this mono-pusher marvel isn’t just a watch—it’s a piece of Japan’s triumphant history. Ready to own a cornerstone of Seiko’s legacy? Let’s explore why this timepiece belongs in your collection.

A Landmark in Time: The 1964 Tokyo Olympics

In 1964, Japan hosted its first Olympic Games, a global stage to showcase its remarkable post-World War II recovery and economic prowess. Seiko, appointed as the official timekeeper, rose to the challenge despite having no prior experience in sports event timing. The result was a suite of groundbreaking innovations, from portable quartz chronometers to electronic timing systems. But the crown jewel was the Seiko Crown Chronograph, the brand’s inaugural chronograph, launched to celebrate this historic moment. Designed to capture the precision and spirit of the Olympics, the Ref. 5717 marked Seiko’s bold entry into chronograph technology, paving the way for legendary models like the 6139 and 6138.

Why the Seiko 5717 Stands Out

The Seiko Crown Chronograph wasn’t just a functional tool—it was a statement of ambition. Developed by Seiko’s Daini Seikosha division, it introduced the Caliber 5717, a hand-wound movement that set a new standard for accessibility and reliability in chronographs. Unlike the complex multi-pusher designs of Swiss competitors, Seiko opted for a mono-pusher system, blending simplicity with sophistication. This watch was created to record time with precision, as evidenced by its clean, purpose-driven design—no tachymeter, just a focus on seconds and minutes for Olympic events. Its release coincided with Japan’s modernization, symbolized by infrastructure like the Tokaido Shinkansen, making it a cultural artifact as much as a timepiece.

This 1964 Example: A Rare Steel-Bezel Gem

This particular Seiko Crown Chronograph, produced in 1964, is a standout with its steel bezel, a durable alternative to the more common black bakelite bezel found on earlier models. The steel bezel adds a sleek, modern edge while preserving the watch’s vintage allure, making it a versatile choice for collectors. Here’s why it shines:

•  Exquisite Design: The 37.5mm stainless steel case boasts a polished mirror finish, with multi-faceted lugs reminiscent of the iconic 44 King Seiko. The silver sunburst dial radiates elegance, featuring brushed chapter rings, mirror-finished hour markers, and a minimalist layout free of an applied Seiko logo—a nod to Seiko’s restrained aesthetic.
•  Steel Bezel Rarity: Unlike the bakelite bezel, the steel bezel offers enhanced durability and a distinct look, appealing to those seeking a unique variant of this historic model.
•  Historical Markings: The case back proudly displays the Seahorse logo, a symbol used on Seiko’s sports models like the Sportsmatic, adding to its collectible appeal (note: earlier 1964 models featured the Tokyo Olympic logo).
•  Wearable Perfection: At just 6.1mm thick, thanks to the slim Caliber 5717, this watch sits comfortably on any wrist, ideal for both formal and casual occasions.

Why Buy This Seiko 5717 Crown Chronograph?

•  Historical Significance: As Seiko’s first chronograph, the 5717 is a pivotal piece that launched the brand’s dominance in chronograph technology, influencing future icons like the world’s first automatic chronograph, the 6139.
•  Investment Potential: With vintage chronographs from the 1960s fetching record prices at auctions, the Seiko 5717 remains undervalued, offering a rare opportunity to invest in a watch poised for appreciation.
•  Unique Appeal: The mono-pusher design and steel bezel set this example apart, appealing to collectors who value rarity and functionality.
•  Versatility: Its slim profile and timeless design make it a perfect companion for any occasion, especially when paired with our Samurai Vintage Heritage Series Leather Strap.

Specification:

Maker: Seiko

Model: Seiko 5717-8990 Crown Chronograph

Era: 1964 Dec

Case Diameter: 37.5 mm

Lug width: 18 mm

Case Condition: A all original steel mirror finished case preserved in amazing condition, especially the lug area of the case we can assure that the watch case have not been polished with the multi dimential case finishing still available. 

Dial Condition: Clean silver sunburst dial in amazing condition.    

Crystal: Original Acrylic Crystal 

Movement: Hand-wound Caliber 5717,  newly serviced and restored in Japan  

Overall Condition: This Seiko 5717 is one of the most collectable watch we have ever sourced in Samurai Vintage and we have paired it with our bespoke rally racing straps. 

Samurai Vintage Co.’s Promise

As a leading vintage watch seller, we pride ourselves on curating authentic, high-quality timepieces. This Seiko Crown Chronograph has been carefully inspected to ensure its originality and condition, reflecting our commitment to excellence. Explore our Vintage Seiko Collection for more treasures that celebrate Japan’s watchmaking heritage.
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