Universal Genève: A Legacy Rediscovered

The Legacy of Universal Genève: A Hidden Gem in Horology

Located between the iconic headquarters of Rolex and Patek Philippe, Universal Genève once stood as a celebrated name in Swiss watchmaking. Although it faded from mainstream recognition, it's now being rediscovered by vintage watch enthusiasts and collectors, thanks to platforms like HODINKEE and Samurai Vintage Co.

A Journey Through Time

Founded in 1894 as Universal Watch by Numa Descombes and Ulysse Perret in Le Locle, Switzerland, the brand relocated to Geneva in 1919 under Perret and Louis Berthoud. After Perret’s passing, his son and new investors expanded Universal Genève into a global leader in horology.

Pioneering Chronographs: The Compax Line

Universal Genève gained fame with the release of the Compur chronograph at Baselworld 1934. This innovative design introduced the dual-pusher chronograph wristwatch, leading to the iconic Compax line. In 1936, the Compax debuted as the first watch with an hour totalizer, a revolutionary concept at the time.

Clarifying Misconceptions

Contrary to popular belief, “Compax” refers to complications, not subdials. The Tri-Compax, launched in 1944, featured three functions: calendar, chronograph, and moon phase, solidifying Universal Genève’s reputation for innovation.

The Polerouter: A Design by Gerald Genta

Beyond chronographs, the Polerouter remains a standout among vintage collectors. Designed by a young Gerald Genta in 1954, this watch commemorated Scandinavian Airlines’ polar flights. It combined elegance with functionality, offering an anti-magnetic solution for extreme conditions. This design marked Genta’s early genius, long before his famed Royal Oak and Nautilus creations.

Rediscovering Universal Genève

Universal Genève’s strategic location and its pioneering designs underscore its historical significance. As collectors share their passion online, the brand is experiencing a well-deserved revival.

What's Next?

Stay tuned for our upcoming articles where we'll explore:

• The chase for the thinnest watch movement to create the best dress watch.
• A showcase of the Universal Genève White Shadow, another masterpiece by Gerald Genta.
• A special Rail Road Staff only watch from Universal Genève.
• How Breitling plans the return of Universal Genève.

Stay connected for more insights!

Thanks Wind Vintage some for the image.