An Comprehensive Guide to Buying Vintage Seikos (King Seiko, Lord Matic, Lord Marvel and more)
An Elementary Guide to Buying Vintage Seikos
Welcome to our comprehensive guide on purchasing vintage Seiko watches. We aim to demystify the process and show you that collecting vintage timepieces doesn't have to break the bank.
The Appeal of Vintage Watches
Collecting vintage watches is often perceived as an expensive hobby that could cost you an arm and a leg. However, the reason we started our brand is to promote the idea that vintage watches don't have to be costly. It's an affordable hobby, and it's always a better alternative when compared to modern watches at the same price point. In this series, we'll begin with vintage Seikos.
Do Your Own Research (DYOR)
A crucial aspect of picking a vintage watch is doing your own research. Vintage Seikos can be a deep rabbit hole. Many of us start by browsing auction sites to find references we like. However, watches on auction sites can be alarming—they may have incorrect parts or refinished dials.
Example: A vintage Seikomatic with a refinished dial might be sold on a trustworthy auction site, but many bidders may not realize that the dial has been refinished.
When you find a reference you like, it's quite easy to find the same reference examples on Google. Check the case details and dial details to ensure all parts are original.
We recommend [Plus9time], which hosts many Seiko catalogs over the years and is, in our opinion, the bible for vintage Seikos.
Buy the Seller, Not the Watch
Purchasing a vintage watch on an auction site may offer a lower cost, but there's a saying: "Buy the seller, not the watch." Reputable vintage watch sellers have handled hundreds, if not thousands, of watches in their careers. They know the references very well and can spot any defects on the watch.
After you've locked in your favorite reference among vintage Seikos, finding a trusted seller can save you a lot of trouble in your watch-hunting journey.
We will be recommending a few iconic vintage Seikos of different watch types that are worth your attention. We will discuss vintage Seikos in three categories, ranking the watches based on their market value in each category.
Vintage Seiko Dress Watches
1) Seiko 5 Actus
The Seiko 5 Actus is the ancestor of the modern-day Seiko 5 series. Many may not know where the "5 Actus" comes from. The "5" represents Seiko's five principal attributes of design:
- Diaflex (unbreakable mainspring)
- Diashock (Seiko's shock-resistant design, equivalent to the Swiss "Incabloc")
- Automatic winding
- Day/date indication
- Water resistance
All Seiko 5 Actus watches are fitted with automatic movements. Seiko was so proud of its automatic movement that they even integrated the crown into the case of the vintage 5 Actus series, as users wouldn't need to wind the watch while wearing it daily.
The vintage Seiko 5 Actus offers a large range of dial and case variants. There's always one that fits your requirements, from a more sporty-style dress watch that looks modern to a classic one suited for formal occasions.
It's an accessible watch, but don't underestimate the potential that the vintage Seiko 5 Actus can bring you at a price similar to a modern-day G-Shock.
Check out our past Seiko 5 Actus listing
2) Seiko Seikomatic
Launched between 1967 and 1969, the Seikomatic-P emerged as Seiko’s strategic response to market competition, embodying the zenith of upper mid-business watches of its era. Aimed at young business professionals, it was the perfect watch to pair with business attire. Produced by the esteemed Suwa Seikosha division, this series is a perfect blend of elegance and technical prowess.
The vintage Seiko models include the Seikomatic, Seikomatic-R, and Seikomatic-P.
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Seikomatic: Typically fitted with a day-date complication with a full-length Kanji day display. The case shapes are more rounded, and the dial design gives the watch a slightly sportier feel compared to later models.
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Seikomatic-R and Seikomatic-P: Often found with similar dial references and automatic movements. The Seikomatic-P is fitted with an innovative 33-jewel 5106A caliber movement with automatic winding and a slightly slimmer profile. An interesting feature is its quick date change executed by pressing on the crown, which is rare compared to other watchmakers.
All in all, a vintage Seiko Seikomatic provides you with clean and elegant dial variants and a Kanji day wheel that's only available in JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) watches, all at a cost similar to a Timex or Hamilton watch in the modern era. It’s one of the best entry-level vintage Seiko dress watches on the market.
Check out our Seikomatic listings
3) Seiko Lord Matic 5606
The vintage Seiko Lord Matic is a stunning timepiece that continues the revered legacy of Seiko's iconic Lord Marvel line. Renowned among watch enthusiasts, the Lord Marvel 36,000 with the 5740C (36,000 bph) movement made a significant impact in the JDM market as the first high-beat watch. Building on this legacy, Seiko introduced the Lord Matic line in 1968, setting high expectations that it successfully surpassed.
The Seiko Lord Matic 5606 showcases Seiko's commitment to excellence with its sophisticated 56 series movement and high-quality case design. Launched in 1968, it quickly became a sought-after model, featuring the ubiquitous Seiko 5606 mechanical movement. This movement not only powered the Lord Matic but also laid the groundwork for higher beat variants in many automatic King Seiko and Grand Seiko models of the early to mid-1970s.
The watch was made in a large range of dial variants, among which these two references are most attractive:
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Seiko 5606-7070: With a white silver sunburst dial, it offers a modern look while maintaining elegance.
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Seiko 5216-7110S Special: Features a blue dial with an extra finely regulated Special Lord Matic movement. The stunning deep blue dial reflects different shades under various lighting angles, making it charming to look at.
Check out our Lord Matic listing
4) Seiko Lord Marvel 36,000
Introducing the Seiko Lord Marvel 36,000—the watch that revolutionized the Japanese watchmaking industry in the 1960s. It was the first true high-beat movement in Japan and the second in the world. During the '60s, most watch movements beat at 18,000 beats per hour, but Seiko sought to build a high-beat movement for higher accuracy. After Girard-Perregaux introduced the first 10-beats-per-second movement, Seiko launched their manual winding caliber 5740C, the first 36,000 bph watch movement in Japan.
Vintage Seiko dress watches are known for their high finishing standards and technological advancements, and the Lord Marvel 36,000 is no exception. The technological breakthrough of caliber 5740C earned Seiko significant international recognition among watchmaking industries. It not only brought the brand closer to the international stage but also laid the foundation for the Hi-Beat Grand Seiko movements we see in the market today. It's remarkable that Seiko chose to debut this groundbreaking movement in the Lord Marvel rather than in Grand Seiko or King Seiko.
The Seiko Lord Marvel 36,000 is not just a watch—it's a piece of history showcasing Seiko's determination to achieve technological breakthroughs. It makes a perfect addition to any watch enthusiast's collection. In any vintage Seiko collection, we always recommend having the Lord Marvel 36,000, a King Seiko, and a Grand Seiko.
Check out the True High Beat Lord Marvel 36000
5) Seiko King Seiko 5625 / King Seiko 5626
The King Seiko was revered as Seiko's premium offering, in direct competition with Grand Seiko. Equipped with ultra-accurate chronometer-rated movements that secured Seiko the champion title in the Swiss Chronometer Competition, a sleek mirror-finished case with a unique design, and the masterful craftsmanship that fostered this durable timeless classic—the design of vintage King Seiko models is so iconic that Seiko is still reissuing them in the modern era.
The King Seiko 5625 / 5626 houses a Hi-Beat movement running at 28,800 bph, a testament to Seiko's mastery of watchmaking technology. Drawing from the knowledge and expertise gained while developing chronometer-rated movements for observatory competitions, this watch offers exceptional value. For just the price of a modern Seiko Presage, you can get a watch with an extremely high-grade movement—one that can rival the Grand Seiko from the same era. It is ultimately the best option if your budget allows you to delve into the vintage Seiko dress watch world!
Check out our King Seiko listings
Vintage Seiko Sports Watches
1) Seiko 6139 SpeedTimer
The Seiko 6139 is arguably the first automatic chronograph ever to be mass-produced. Along with the Zenith El Primero and the Swiss joint force Caliber 11, the Seiko 6139 movement, launched in the same year, deserves equal recognition as the first automatic chronograph movement.
The Seiko 6139 movement sets itself apart from its contemporaries with a few distinct features. Unlike the El Primero and Caliber 11, the Seiko 6139 features only one sub-dial that counts 30 minutes of elapsed time. Additionally, it includes a day-date complication, packing all these features into such a small size—a fascinating achievement.
The chronograph mechanism is also a highlight of the movement. It is fitted with a column wheel mechanism, outperforming many of today's entry-level chronograph movements.
One variant of the Seiko 6139 is called the "Pogue" because, in 1973, astronaut Colonel William Pogue brought his Seiko 6139 into space as a personal item during his mission. The watch survived the mission without a problem, making it the first automatic chronograph to go to space. This makes the model extra special to own, and this specific dial variant commands a much higher price than other 6139 models.
Check out our Seiko 6139 listings
2) Seiko 7018 "One-Eyed Panda"
Building on the foundation of the self-winding Caliber 6138 and 6139, the Seiko 7018-7000—affectionately known as the "One-Eyed Panda"—stands out as a quintessential model for collectors and enthusiasts alike. Released in 1971 by Daini Seikosha, the Seiko 7018-7000 built upon the success of its predecessor, the Caliber 7017, by maintaining an ultra-slim profile of just 5.9mm thick. This made it one of the slimmest automatic chronograph movements of its time, a record it proudly held until 1987.
The Seiko 7018-7000 distinguishes itself in the realm of vintage Seiko chronographs through its elegant design and exceptional functionality. Known as the "One-Eyed Panda," this model features a striking panda dial—a classic combination of white and black that exudes timeless sophistication. The clean, minimalist layout with a single sub-dial enhances its vintage appeal, making it a versatile piece suitable for both casual and formal occasions.
Check out our Seiko 7018 listing
3) Seiko 6306 Turtle / Seiko 6309 Turtle
The Seiko 6306 Turtle, a legendary dive watch, has captivated the hearts of watch enthusiasts worldwide. Making its debut in 1976, this vintage Seiko dive watch was carefully crafted to withstand the severe demands of professional diving while maintaining impeccable accuracy and readability in even the most challenging conditions.
The Seiko Turtle swiftly rose to prominence, becoming a revered piece among divers and collectors alike. Its robust design even earned it a spot as the preferred timepiece for the U.S. Army during wartime. The Seiko Turtle 6306's unique moniker stems from its unmistakable cushion-shaped case and pronounced crown guards, evoking the image of a turtle's shell.
Check out our Seiko Turtle listing
4) Seiko 6106 Rally Diver
The Seiko 6106 Rally Diver is a watch with simple functions yet stands out distinctly from its original line of watches. The blue checkered bezel and blue and white inner chapter ring imbue the watch with rich racing heritage.
Many watches fall under the budget-friendly Seiko 5 line; however, only those with truly special and unique designs are remembered by collectors and added to their collections. The Rally Diver is so special that Seiko even reissued it with the Seiko 5 Sports Rally Divers SRPK65 and SRPK67, copying the exact look of the vintage model but with an increased diameter and enhanced water resistance. However, in our view, the vintage model with a hidden crown and smaller size is still the best option if you're looking for a non-chronograph watch with racing heritage in the vintage Seiko lineup. It looks perfect with NATO or rally-style leather straps on the wrist.
So here it is—a long yet extensive introduction to Seiko’s vintage lineup with different purposes. We truly believe this can be your first step into the fascinating world of vintage Seiko, and we believe you will be able to find one that suits you among the above-mentioned models.
At Samurai Vintage, we always strive to source the best vintage Seikos from Japan for you. As one of the few sellers dedicated to vintage Japanese watches, we stand behind our products. If you have any questions or have any vintage Seikos in mind that you're looking for, feel free to reach out to us. We will help and guide you step by step into this deep rabbit hole of vintage Seiko.
Finally, we want to introduce to the world that collecting vintage watches doesn't need to be an expensive hobby—it can be an affordable pursuit that helps you mark each of your special occasions.
We look forward to having you join us on the next watch hunt! Talk soon~
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